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Cauliflower au Gratin

I’ve been told that Cauliflower au Gratin is a southern thing. Does anybody know if that’s true? Can somebody from the Midwest or someplace like that weigh in here? Did y’all have Cauliflower au Gratin growing up? (EDIT: An English friend says they have it in England, but there they call it ‘cauliflower cheese’. She swears it’s the same thing.)

Not only did we have it at home, but they made Cauliflower au Gratin in the school cafeteria, and I know you could get it at Morrison’s. But neither of those places made it as well as my mom does. Her white sauce is never pasty and she uses more cheese. It’s important to be lavish with the cheese.

I’ve tinkered with the basic recipe over the years, and I believe I’ve come up with an absolutely over the top Cauliflower au Gratin that’s even easier than the original. It’s a showstopper, and I’ve cajoled cauliflower haters into trying it with excellent results. The Princess OG once declared, “This is the way I ALWAYS want to have cauliflower.” And she likes cauliflower anyway.

I use fresh cauliflower for this, and I roast it rather than boiling or steaming it. Roasting cauliflower intensifies the natural flavor–cauliflower can be pretty bland–and it enhances the natural sweetness. And it’s easier because you don’t have to find a colander and drain it. I often roast frozen bagged vegetables, but for this recipe the firmer fresh cauliflower gives a better texture to the dish.

Also, you don’t have to make a white sauce! (Can you even believe it!?) You’re simply going to warm heavy cream up enough to melt cheese in it. This sauce technique is going to change your life. Once you’ve made this crazy easy cheese sauce, you’ll realize the cheese sauce possibilities are endless. And no, half and half won’t work. Neither will whole milk, 2% milk, skim milk, or evaporated milk. You need real, actual, cream, so pick up a pint while you’re at the grocery getting the cauliflower.

As for the cheese, I’ve tried several different kinds, and all are good, but extra sharp cheddar is excellent. And please, please, please grate it yourself. You won’t get a perfectly smooth, silky sauce if you use pre-grated cheese.

And finally, you probably already know my position on breadcrumbs. The best breadcrumbs are free, and they come from stale bread and bread butts in your own kitchen. When you collect enough to bother with the food processor or blender, buzz it all into crumbs, put the crumbs in a freezer bag, squeeze out the air before you seal the bag, and fling them in the freezer. No need to thaw, just pour out what you need at any given time. Buttery cracker crumbs–Ritz crackers, Captain’s Wafers, Club Crackers, etc.–can substitute in this Cauliflower au Gratin recipe in a pinch, and stale buttery crackers are fine. If all you have is panko, you can make that work, too. But those superfine Italian or plain breadcrumbs just aren’t what you’re looking for in this recipe. Save those for breading chicken breasts or something like that. Don’t skip crumbs, though! The crispy crunchy crumb layer on top of the creamy cheesy cauliflower is everybody’s favorite part.

BTW, the leftovers are terrific for breakfast! (I know that sounds bizarre, but I’m not kidding.)

Cauliflower lovers, unite!

Cauliflower au Gratin

Ingredients

  • 1 head fresh cauliflower, leaves and core removed, broken into florets
  • olive oil, salt and pepper
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded by hand
  • 2 T. melted butter
  • ¾ cups homemade breadcrumbs, panko, or buttery cracker crumbs
  • paprika for dusting (optional)

Instructions

  • Preheat oven to 400°. Spread cauliflower florets on a sheet pan leaving some space between them. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, or until fork tender.
  • Grease a small baking dish. (I use a 7½" souffle dish.)
  • In a small saucepan, heat the cream until it's just beginning to boil. Remove from the heat and add the cheese a little at a time, stirring until the cheese melts. Add salt and pepper to taste.
  • When the cauliflower is done, transfer to the prepared baking dish and lower the oven to 350°. Pour the cheese sauce over the cauliflower. Toss the crumbs with the melted butter and sprinkle evenly over the casserole. Dust the top with paprika if using. Bake 25-30 minutes until the sauce is bubbly and the crumbs are browned.
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2 Comments

  1. Mary Margaret Thomas

    You know I’m going to try this!

    • Malia

      Let me know how you like it!

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